SANTA MARIA ZOCQUITLAN, Mexico (AP) — Mexico’s agave-based spirit, mezcal, is made in much the same way it has been for generations. The work is slow and laborious, guided by knowledge passed down by Aboriginal families.
The Mexican state of Oaxaca is the country’s largest producer of mezcal, and in many of the state’s villages the spirit has long been used as a home remedy and as a gesture of hospitality. Scenes like this occur at every wedding, funeral and community celebration. It is no longer just a drink but a part of everyday life.
Here’s how to make it:
Harvest agave
The process begins in the fields. Workers called jimadores cut down mature agaves (locally known as agaves) by hand, often on steep hillsides. They use machetes and sharp blades to cut off the prickly leaves to reveal the pineapples, which are then transported to the winery by truck or donkey.
The work is physically demanding and sometimes dangerous. The terrain is uneven and remote, and the agave’s spikes can easily injure workers.
There are about 200 species of agave, about 40 of which are used to make mezcal. The species known as espadin is the most common because it matures more quickly than many wild varieties and is often grown in monocultures.
Cooking Tequila
Bury the plant in a pit lined with hot stones and covered with soil. The firewood heats the stones in the ground and the agave is roasted for several days. Slow cooking gives mezcal its unique smoky flavor.
“Ever since I was a little girl, I spent days helping my father in the winery,” says Elena Aragón Hernández from Santa María Zoquitlán, who is known as the “Mezcal Master” for her expertise. “Women have always been part of this process and we are now demanding a place in the industry.”
crushed agave
Once cooked, the agave is crushed under a large round stone called a tajona. In many towns, horses pull stones in circles to grind the agave into a fibrous paste.
Some manufacturers have begun using mechanical grinders to speed up the process. While industrial equipment makes the job easier, some traditional producers say tahuna breaks the fibers in different ways and creates flavors that machines can’t replicate.
“Growing up, I realized that making mezcal was much more difficult and physically demanding than I thought,” said Luis Cruz Velasco, who learned the craft from his family in San Luis del Rio. “We work in Palenque all day long, from sunrise to sunset, Monday through Sunday.”
fermentation
Transfer the crushed agave to an open barrel and mix with water by hand. Fermentation can take days or weeks, depending on temperature and humidity.
The production of mezcal requires large amounts of water and firewood. Some have also begun purchasing certified wood and installing systems to cool and reuse water, as well as biodigesters to process waste from fermentation and distillation.
Soledad Salinas producer Armando Martínez Ruiz said his distillery uses about 30,000 liters (7,925 gallons) of water and more than 15 tons of firewood to produce about 5,000 liters (1,320 gallons) of mezcal each month.
Distillation and tasting
The fermented mash is distilled in small batches in copper stills, a method often referred to as artisanal mezcal. A few producers continue to distill it in clay pots, called heirloom mezcal, a slow and ancient technique.
The spirit goes through two rounds of distillation before it is ready to drink. It is measured by sight, smell and taste rather than tools, and is influenced both by tradition and place of origin.
Every year, thousands of tourists travel to Oaxaca to sample spirits at local bars (mezcalerias in Spanish). Mezcal is typically sipped slowly rather than in one gulp, allowing drinkers to experience the differences between its many varieties.
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