A second round of genetic testing of shrimp served at more than 20 restaurants in Charleston shows that most restaurants continue to sell farm-raised imported shrimp, with some passing off the food as wild and locally caught.
The Charleston findings are part of a broader multi-state investigation into shrimp mislabeling and substitution fraud conducted by SeaD Consulting at the request of the Southern Shrimp Alliance (SSA). SSA is a nonprofit alliance of shrimp businesses in eight southern coastal states, including South Carolina.
According to SeaD Consulting, the latest tests show a slight improvement over the first round of testing a year ago at the same Charleston restaurant, which found foreign shrimp widely sold and falsely advertised.
The struggling shrimp industry has long complained that many restaurants in South Carolina don’t serve local shrimp, even though the Palmetto State boasts shrimp as its No. 1 seafood. The industry said the alleged shrimp fraud occurred at a time when the domestic market was being dominated by foreign imports of farmed shrimp.
Dave Williams, founder of SeaD and a commercial fisheries scientist, said in a press release that the economic stakes of the tagging issue are high because of the importance of local fisheries to coastal communities.
“Seventy percent of U.S. seafood spending is at restaurants, so it’s critical that restaurants tell the truth about what they’re serving,” Williams said. “Consumers should have the right to decide whether to eat and support U.S. wild-caught fisheries that are heavily regulated and inspected, rather than poorly inspected imported shrimp that might come from ponds in Indonesia, Vietnam or India.”
An employee handles freshly caught shrimp at the Bluffton Oyster Company on Dock Street in Old Town Bluffton on June 4, 2024.
(Drew Martin/dmartin@islandpacket.com)
That’s why the U.S. shrimp industry supports a secret investigation into the origin of seafood sold in eight states. The Trump administration’s threat to impose tariffs has recently put the spotlight on unfair trade practices faced by shrimpers.
Last year, shrimp served at 44 randomly selected restaurants in the Charleston area was tested. The results showed that 4 of 44 (or 9%) offered wild shrimp caught in U.S. waters, while the remainder offered farm-raised imported shrimp. SeaD Consulting said that of the 40 restaurants serving imported shrimp, only 15 verbally admitted to using imported shrimp.
This year’s results
From February 10 to 11 this year, 22 of the original 44 restaurants were tested again, and the results showed that 5 of the 22 restaurants (or 23%) served wild-caught shrimp. The group said the 17 restaurants served imported farm-raised shrimp, suggesting the shrimp were wild-caught in the United States.
Three restaurants found to be serving American shrimp also served local fare in the first round of testing: Acme Lowcountry Kitchen, Isle of Palms; Grace & Grit, Mt Pleasant and Rappahannock Oyster Bar (Charleston).
On June 4, 2024, fresh, plump shrimp were kept on ice at the Bluffton Oyster Company on Dock Street in Old Town Bluffton.
(Drew Martin/dmartin@islandpacket.com)
Two Charleston restaurants, Amen Street Fish & Raw Bar and Mt. Pleasant Seafood, initially sold imported shrimp as a test, and then began serving American shrimp.
SeaD Consulting said Myrtle Beach test results will be available next week.
It’s unclear whether Beaufort County plans to conduct testing. To ensure scientific validity, SeaD Consulting and the SSA never announce in advance the markets they will test, said SSA spokesperson Deborah Long.
Is labeling required?
Officials with the alliance and the South Carolina Shrimp Association said the testing showed the need for better labeling laws.
Five of the eight shrimping states have passed labeling or disclosure laws, said Blake Price, director of the Southern Shrimp Alliance.
“Given the prevalence of false advertising for shrimp, we hope the Carolinas and Florida will follow suit,” Price said.
Brian Jones, vice president of the South Carolina Shrimp Association, said the group is developing labeling legislation in South Carolina. “People should know what’s in their shrimp and grits,” he said.
Last year, Jones’ organization sued 40 Charleston-area restaurants in Charleston federal court, alleging shrimp fraud. The lawsuit accuses the restaurants of violating state and federal laws by advertising South Carolina seafood but serving foreign shrimp.
Craig Reaves owns Sea Eagle Market in Beaufort, a seafood retail business with shrimp boats based in Village Creek, St. Helena. He has previously described imported products as “farm-raised garbage”.
“It’s unbelievable that people come from all over the country and want to get local seafood and have it presented this way and then have pond crap from India,” Reeves said.
Arthur Duncan and Craig Reaves dump shrimp from the net into the sorting area.
(Karl Puckett/kapuckett@islandpacket.com)
